THE SOUTH BAY'S BEST PASTRY CHEFS
By Carolyn Jung
Mercury News
08/01/2007 01:38:35 AM PDT
Let's face it, one of the best parts of a meal often gets short shrift.
And that's a shame. For so many people, myself included, dessert is what we
look forward to most. That little something sweet - or big something sweet -
that gives us a huge kid-like grin, and boosts our spirits no matter what
state they are in.
Yet in most restaurant reviews, it's all about the executive chef's glorious
savory courses. The poor pastry chef's desserts are relegated to one
paragraph at the very end, if that. At bakeries, we gaze longingly at the
goodies in the glass case with hardly a care as to who meticulously crafted
them.
But thankfully, that may be changing. In this enlightened era, in which some
of New York's most prominent pastry chefs are opening dessert-only
restaurants with grand tasting menus of their own, the time is ripe to give
the sweetest of the sweet their due.
We'd like to do our part. Today, we spotlight - in no particular order - our
picks for the South Bay's premier pastry chefs. They are true artists whose
creations dazzle and are always worth every darn calorie.
Two own their own bakeries. Two others head pastry departments at top-rated
restaurants. One knew he wanted to be a pastry chef at age 4. Another made
the switch to baking from broadcasting. Find out how they got where they are
now, their favorite ingredients, and the dessert disaster they would love to
forget. Then, enjoy a recipe from each to make at home.
Too often we save the best for last. Today, we offer it up to enjoy first.
Contact Carolyn Jung at cjung@mercurynews.com or
(408) 920-5451. Fax (408) 271-3786.
CARLOS SANCHEZ AND FRENCH TOAST
08/01/2007 01:39:01 AM PDT
Carlos Sanchez, 40, executive pastry chef,
Parcel 104 in Santa Clara
Birthplace: Cali, Colombia
How often do you eat dessert: "Every day, I taste desserts here. When I go
out, it has to be a good, good restaurant for me to order dessert or else I
won't."
Why he became a pastry chef: "I wanted to be an architect. When I finished
high school, I got a scholarship to Switzerland to study and to work in a
hotel, helping the pastry chef. I thought I would earn enough money to
return to Colombia to go to architecture school. But I ended up loving
pastry and never looking back."
Background: Worked in Liechtenstein for two years, doing pastry. Met Hans
Egg, chef-owner of the Saddle River Inn in New Jersey, who asked Sanchez to
come work for him. Worked there for 11 years before going to the
well-regarded Flying Fish Cafe at Disney World in Orlando. Was there for
five years, before leaving to join Parcel 104 as its opening pastry chef in
2001.
High point: Two years after Parcel 104 opened, he got coveted offers to open
Bradley Ogden in Las Vegas or to work for Daniel Boulud in New York. He
turned down both to stay at Parcel 104.
What distinguishes your desserts: "They are about four different desserts on
one plate, each two or three bites. They are very simple, but at the same
time very clean in flavors. I try to make each dessert with different
temperatures and textures so you experience the warm, the cold, the
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crunchy, the soft. I want you to finish and say, `Wow, that's good, I have
to come back.' "
Bestsellers: The "classics" sampler, which he had on the menu for three
years. But don't worry, it will reappear from time to time. It features
tapioca, French toast, creme brulee, and a shot glass drink of the season (a
smoothie or milkshake).
Favorite dessert as a child: "Fruit tart. You have fruit, cream and dough -
three different textures and three different flavors. I love it. As a child,
my brothers and I would wait on Friday nights for my Dad to come home from
work with fruit tarts from a bakery."
Most important components of a great dessert: "The best quality ingredients.
If you bring me the best strawberries from the farmers market, I don't have
to be a genius to transform them to make a beautiful dessert."
Worst dessert disaster: "In 1998 at the Flying Fish Cafe, Bradley Ogden
asked me to make a persimmon pudding cake. I tried six or seven recipes. I
was never able to make it. I told Bradley, `Don't ask me anymore. It doesn't
come out.' I have never been able to put it on the menu. Maybe someday
someone can teach me. For now, I give up."
Idol: "Hans Egg. He is very talented, but at the same time he taught me how
to be a good person. I also admire Bart Hosmer (former executive chef of
Parcel 104). He has the magic touch to write menus so they sound so
beautiful. He knows how to manage people. I never heard a bad word from
Bart."
The one ingredient you would have on a deserted island: Rhubarb - his
favorite fruit.
Dessert that's most like you: "Fruit tart. The fruit is very delicate and
soft. I am very soft to people. But when I work, I'm very tough, so that's
like the crust."
Where to enjoy his desserts: Parcel 104, 2700 Mission College Blvd. in the
Marriott Hotel in Santa Clara; www.parcel104.com; (408) 970-6104.
